3-sun 12-step boxes
Today, I worked on the finishing process and priming of the 3-sun 12-step puzzle box. Along with this box, I am also making a few one-point checkerboard yosegi (ichimatsu) boxes. In addition to the walnut version I made last month, I have also created two boxes with side panels featuring the ichimatsu design used in this project. Since our stock for sale is running very low, I decided to add a few more variations to increase the product lineup 😅 This time, I created a new design, featuring solid wood top and bottom panels. The slightly lighter color tone complements the checkerboard pattern on the side panels well. Tomorrow, I plan to further sand this box with sandpaper and apply the final coat of finish.
After that, I performed the final check on the 4.2-sun box, which was completed with the final coat yesterday. As I’ve mentioned before, the mechanism of the Japanese puzzle box tends to stick due to the coating, making it impossible to move. I carefully separate the stuck parts and check the movement. This is a very delicate process—if not done properly, the box can be damaged. While I don’t apply excessive force, improper handling can cause small chips on the box. Ideally, this should be done at an early stage, before the coating fully hardens. While the surface must be dry to the touch, it takes about 24 hours for the coating to cure completely. At this stage, the stuck parts are easier to separate. However, in reality, due to work schedules and time constraints, the final check is usually done after 24 hours.
Today, I was able to move the mechanism without breaking it, but I found a few small scratches that I hadn’t noticed during the coating process. I will repair these and apply the final coat of finish again along with the 3-sun boxes that were coated today.
Today I’m writing this blog post in the middle of my workday, but after this, I will start preparing materials for the main body of the 4-sun 27-step puzzle box. I’m aiming to produce around 30 to 40 pieces this time. The plan is to primarily create designs that combine traditional yosegi and checkerboard yosegi patterns. However, if possible, I’d also like to include a few pieces featuring solid wood top and bottom panels, similar to the 3-sun boxes I made this time.
After that, I performed the final check on the 4.2-sun box, which was completed with the final coat yesterday. As I’ve mentioned before, the mechanism of the Japanese puzzle box tends to stick due to the coating, making it impossible to move. I carefully separate the stuck parts and check the movement. This is a very delicate process—if not done properly, the box can be damaged. While I don’t apply excessive force, improper handling can cause small chips on the box. Ideally, this should be done at an early stage, before the coating fully hardens. While the surface must be dry to the touch, it takes about 24 hours for the coating to cure completely. At this stage, the stuck parts are easier to separate. However, in reality, due to work schedules and time constraints, the final check is usually done after 24 hours.
Today, I was able to move the mechanism without breaking it, but I found a few small scratches that I hadn’t noticed during the coating process. I will repair these and apply the final coat of finish again along with the 3-sun boxes that were coated today.
Today I’m writing this blog post in the middle of my workday, but after this, I will start preparing materials for the main body of the 4-sun 27-step puzzle box. I’m aiming to produce around 30 to 40 pieces this time. The plan is to primarily create designs that combine traditional yosegi and checkerboard yosegi patterns. However, if possible, I’d also like to include a few pieces featuring solid wood top and bottom panels, similar to the 3-sun boxes I made this time.
